Sicilian Ceramic Heads
When I first saw a ceramic head, I thought to myself, "Why would anyone want one of those?" I thought it was not very attractive. Then I looked at the price tag and confirmed my initial reaction with a gasp, not only was it ugly, but it was also pretty pricey. I have maintained that opinion for over 5 years now, well, that is until recently.
Just before winter break I took a drive up to Santo Stefano with Evelyn. She wanted to buy a few last minute ceramic Christmas gifts. Having nothing to do that day, aside from school work, it was an easy choice. Besides, I had had my eye on a ceramic cyclops that was in a shop there for over a year, and was also in the market for a decorated roofing tile.
We arrived before lunch and started shopping. I guess we were done in less than an hour (it helps when you know what you're looking for). We loaded our treasures into the car and walked to my favorite restaurant in Santo Stefano di Camastra - Trattoria da Giannino.
While we were waiting to place our order, the man seated next to us was served his pasta. It looked great and smelled even better. We commented on the pasta and then Evelyn asked the man what it was called. He politely told her, and then offered us each a taste! We declined. He insisted. We declined again (I had ordered it before), and Evelyn ordered it.
After lunch we walked through a few shops on the way to the car. There was an awesome trinacria in one, that I really wanted...unfortunately, at 650 euro it was a little out of reach. In the next shop, we saw a small (8") ceramic head that I thought was surprisingly handsome. I didn't have anymore cash and asked if I could pay by credit card, the vendor declined stating that his machine didn't work. I apologized, and we left.
We then went into the shop next door and immediately saw the most beautiful ceramic head. It was about 16" tall, a woman, and mine. It was much more than I wanted to spend at 460 euro. I told Evelyn I wanted it and she immediately began bartering with the shopkeeper. Maybe he hadn't sold anything in a while (being the off season), or maybe he just really liked her, I'll never know...but he came down to 390 euro - a steal, and the deal was done. It still nauseates me to think about how much I spent on her, but she is beautiful, and an investment.
Sarah, I hope you like her...she'll be yours one day.
I've heard a lot of different stories about why the Sicilians craft these ceramic heads. Among them is the story of the Moorish royalty that were being taken away for execution, thus the somber look. The story that I think I like the most is a vengeful love story, and is explained here:
